Terrier Tidbits
Did You Know? from the American Kennel Club
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Grooming your Smooth Fox
Terrier Generally speaking the Smooth
coat does not require any professional care.
A vigorous brushing with either a rubber or bristle brush once a week
to remove dead hair is sufficient. The
toenails of course need to be cut regularly.
They will grow a brush on the tail and upper hind leg. That can be cut away if desired. They will drop winter coat in the
spring. We have found that the easiest
way to combat that heavy shed is to clip it all off with a No. 8 ½
blade. The coat grows back
beautifully. Grooming your Wire Fox Terrier This coat can be cared for in
two different ways. It can be clipped
to shape either at home or at a grooming shop. Four to five trimming per year are average. Or the coat can be pulled and shaped by
hand. The coat must be hand pulled for
showing. Hand pulling produces the
desirable hard texture and beautiful depth of color. Clipping will soften the coat and lighten
the color. The owner can learn either
method. The coat will grow quite long
and needs to be brushed and combed once a week. There is minimal shedding. The wire is one breed recommended for
people with allergies. |
Fox Terrier (Wire)
Terrier Group
Breed Standard
General Appearance
The Terrier should be alert, quick of movement, keen of expression, on the
tip-toe of expectation at the slightest provocation. Character is imparted by
the expression of the eyes and by the carriage of ears and tail. Bone and
strength in a small compass are essential, but this must not be taken to mean
that a Terrier should be "cloddy," or in any way coarse--speed and
endurance being requisite as well as power. The Terrier must on no account be
leggy, nor must he be too short on the leg. He should stand like a cleverly
made, short-backed hunter, covering a lot of ground.
N.B. Old scars or injuries, the result of work or accident, should not
be allowed to prejudice a Terrier's chance in the show ring, unless they
interfere with its movement or with its utility for work or stud.
Size, Proportion, Substance
According to present-day requirements, a full-sized, well balanced dog should
not exceed 15½ inches at the withers--the bitch being proportionately
lower--nor should the length of back from withers to root of tail exceed 12
inches, while to maintain the relative proportions, the head-as mentioned
below-should not exceed 7¼ inches or be less than 7 inches. A dog with these
measurements should scale 18 pounds in show condition--a bitch weighing some two
pounds less--with a margin of one pound either way.
The dog should be balanced and this may be defined as the correct proportions
of a certain point or points, when considered in relation to a certain other
point or points. It is the keystone of the Terrier's anatomy. The chief points
for consideration are the relative proportions of skull and foreface; head and
back; height at withers; and length of body from shoulder point to buttock--the
ideal of proportion being reached when the last two measurements are the same.
It should be added that, although the head measurements can be taken with
absolute accuracy, the height at withers and length of back are approximate,
and are inserted for the information of breeders and exhibitors rather than as
a hard-and-fast rule.
Head
The length of the head of a full-grown well developed dog of correct
size--measured with calipers--from the back of the occipital bone to the
nostrils-should be from 7 to 7¼ inches, the bitch's head being proportionately
shorter. Any measurement in excess of this usually indicates an oversized or
long-backed specimen, although occasionally--so rarely as to partake of the
nature of a freak--a Terrier of correct size may boast a head 7½ inches in
length. In a well balanced head there should be little apparent difference in
length between skull and foreface. If, however, the foreface is noticeably
shorter, it amounts to a fault, the head looking weak and
"unfinished." On the other hand, when the eyes are set too high up in
the skull and too near the ears, it also amounts to a fault, the head being
said to have a "foreign appearance." Keen of expression.
Eyes should be dark in color, moderately small, rather deep-set, not
prominent, and full of fire, life, and intelligence; as nearly as possible circular
in shape, and not too far apart. Anything approaching a yellow eye is most
objectionable. Ears should be small and V-shaped and of moderate
thickness, the flaps neatly folded over and dropping forward close to the
cheeks. The topline of the folded ear should be well
above the level of the skull. A pendulous ear, hanging dead by the side of the
head like a Hound's, is uncharacteristic of the Terrier, while an ear which is semierect is still more undesirable. Disqualifications
Ears prick, tulip or rose.
The topline of the skull should be almost
flat, sloping slightly and gradually decreasing in width toward the eyes, and
should not exceed 3½ inches in diameter at the widest part--measuring with the
calipers--in the full-grown dog of correct size, the bitch's skull being
proportionately narrower. If this measurement is exceeded, the skull is termed
"coarse," while a full-grown dog with a much
narrower skull is termed "bitchy" in head.
Although the foreface should gradually taper from eye to muzzle and should
dip slightly at its juncture with the forehead, it should not "dish"
or fall away quickly below the eyes, where it should be full and well made up,
but relieved from "wedginess" by a little
delicate chiseling. While well developed jaw bones, armed with a set of
strong, white teeth, impart that appearance of strength to the foreface which
is so desirable, an excessive bony or muscular development of the jaws is both
unnecessary and unsightly, as it is partly responsible for the full and rounded
contour of the cheeks to which the term "cheeky" is applied.
Nose should be black. Disqualifications Nose white, cherry or
spotted to a considerable extent with either of these colors. Mouth Both
upper and lower jaws should be strong and muscular, the teeth as nearly
as possible level and capable of closing together like a vise the lower canines
locking in front of the upper and the points of the upper incisors slightly
overlapping the lower.
Disqualifications Much undershot, or much overshot.
Neck, Topline, Body
Neck should be clean, muscular, of fair length, free from throatiness
and presenting a graceful curve when viewed from the side. The back
should be short and level with no appearance of slackness--the loins muscular
and very slightly arched. The term "slackness" is applied both to the
portion of the back immediately behind the withers when it shows any tendency
to dip, and also the flanks when there is too much space between the back ribs
and hipbone. When there is little space between the ribs and hips, the dog is
said to be "short in couplings," "short-coupled," or
"well ribbed up." A Terrier can scarcely be too short in back,
provided he has sufficient length of neck and liberty of movement. The bitch
may be slightly longer in couplings than the dog.
Chest deep and not broad, a too narrow chest being
almost as undesirable as a very broad one. Excessive depth of chest and
brisket is an impediment to a Terrier when going to ground. The brisket should
be deep, the front ribs moderately arched, and the back ribs deep and well
sprung. Tail should be set on rather high and carried gaily but not
curled. It should be of good strength and substance and of fair length-a
three-quarters dock is about right--since it affords the only safe grip when
handling working Terriers. A very short tail is suitable neither for work nor
show.
Forequarters
Shoulders when viewed from the front should slope steeply downwards from
their juncture, with the neck towards the points, which should be fine. When
viewed from the side they should be long, well laid back, and should slope
obliquely backwards from points to withers, which should always be clean-cut. A
shoulder well laid back gives the long forehand which, in combination with a
short back, is so desirable in Terrier or Hunter. The elbows should hang
perpendicular to the body, working free of the sides, carried
straight through in traveling. Viewed from any direction the legs should be
straight, the bone of the forelegs strong right down to the feet.
Feet should be round, compact, and not large--the pads tough and well cushioned, and the toes moderately arched and turned neither
in nor out. A Terrier with good-shaped forelegs and feet will wear his nails
down short by contact with the road surface, the weight of the body being
evenly distributed between the toe pads and the heels.
Hindquarters
Should be strong and muscular, quite free from droop
or crouch; the thighs long and powerful; the stifles well curved and turned
neither in nor out; the hock joints well bent and near the ground; the hocks
perfectly upright and parallel with each other when viewed from behind. The
worst possible form of hindquarters consists of a short second thigh and a
straight stifle, a combination which causes the hind legs to act as props
rather than instruments of propulsion. The hind legs should be carried straight
through in traveling. Feet as in front.
Coat
The best coats appear to be broken, the hairs having a tendency to twist, and
are of dense, wiry texture--like coconut matting--the hairs growing so closely
and strongly together that, when parted with the fingers, the skin cannot be
seen. At the base of these stiff hairs is a shorter growth of finer and softer
hair--termed the undercoat. The coat on the sides is never quite so hard as that on the back and quarters. Some of the
hardest coats are "crinkly" or slightly waved, but a curly coat is
very objectionable. The hair on the upper and lower jaws should be crisp and
only sufficiently long to impart an appearance of strength to the foreface. The
hair on the forelegs should also be dense and crisp. The coat should average in
length from ¾ to one inch on shoulders and neck, lengthening to 1½ inches on
withers, back, ribs, and quarters. These measurements are given rather as a
guide to exhibitors than as an infallible rule, since the length of coat
depends on the climate, seasons, and individual animal. The judge must form his
own opinion as to what constitutes a "sufficient" coat on the day.
Color
White should predominate; brindle, red, liver or slaty
blue are objectionable. Otherwise, color is of little or no importance.
Gait
The movement or action is the crucial test of conformation. The Terrier's legs
should be carried straight forward while traveling, the forelegs hanging
perpendicular and swinging parallel to the sides, like the pendulum of a clock.
The principal propulsive power is furnished by the hind legs, perfection of
action being found in the Terrier possessing long thighs and muscular second
thighs well bent at the stifles, which admit of a strong forward thrust or
"snatch" of the hocks. When approaching, the forelegs should form a
continuation of the straight of the front, the feet being the same distance
apart as the elbows. When stationary it is often difficult to determine whether
a dog is slightly out at shoulder but, directly he moves, the defect--if it
exists--becomes more apparent, the forefeet having a tendency to cross,
"weave," or "dish." When, on the contrary, the dog is tied
at the shoulder, the tendency of the feet is to move wider apart, with a sort
of paddling action. When the hocks are turned in-cow-hocks-the stifles and feet
are turned outwards, resulting in a serious loss of propulsive power. When the
hocks are turned outwards the tendency of the hind feet is to cross, resulting
in an ungainly waddle.
Temperament
The Terrier should be alert, quick of movement, keen of expression, on the
tip-toe of expectation at the slightest provocation.
Disqualifications
Ears prick, tulip or rose.
Nose white, cherry or spotted to a considerable extent with either of these
colors.
Mouth much undershot, or much overshot.
Approved
Effective
Fox Terrier (Smooth)
Terrier Group
Breed Standard
General Appearance
The dog must present a generally gay, lively and active appearance; bone and
strength in a small compass are essentials; but this must not be taken to mean
that a Fox Terrier should be cloddy, or in any way coarse--speed and endurance
must be looked to as well as power, and the symmetry of the Foxhound taken as a
model. The Terrier, like the Hound, must on no account be leggy, nor must he be
too short in the leg. He should stand like a cleverly made hunter, covering a
lot of ground, yet with a short back, as stated below. He will then attain the
highest degree of propelling power, together with the greatest length of stride
that is compatible with the length of his body. Weight is not a certain
criterion of a Terrier's fitness for his work-general shape, size and contour
are the main points; and if a dog can gallop and stay, and follow his fox up a
drain, it matters little what his weight is to a pound or so.
N.B. Old scars or injuries, the result of work or accident, should not
be allowed to prejudice a Terrier's chance in the show ring, unless they
interfere with its movement or with its utility for work or stud.
Size, Proportion, Substance
According to present-day requirements, a full-sized, well balanced dog should
not exceed 15½ inches at the withers--the bitch being proportionately
lower--nor should the length of back from withers to root of tail exceed 12
inches, while to maintain the relative proportions, the head should not exceed
7¼ inches or be less than 7 inches. A dog with these measurements should scale
18 pounds in show condition--a bitch weighing some two pounds less-with a
margin of one pound either way.
Balance This may be defined as the correct proportions of a certain
point, or points, when considered in relation to a certain other point or
points. It is the keystone of the Terrier's anatomy. The chief points for
consideration are the relative proportions of skull and foreface; head and
back; height at withers and length of body from shoulder point to buttock-the
ideal of proportion being reached when the last two measurements are the same.
It should be added that, although the head measurements can be taken with
absolute accuracy, the height at withers and length of back and coat are
approximate, and are inserted for the information of breeders and exhibitors
rather than as a hard-and-fast rule.
Head
Eyes and rims should be dark in color, moderately small and
rather deep set, full of fire, life and intelligence
and as nearly possible circular in shape. Anything approaching a yellow eye is
most objectionable. Ears should be V-shaped and small, of moderate
thickness, and dropping forward close to the cheek, not hanging by the side of
the head like a Foxhound. The topline of the folded
ear should be well above the level of the skull. Disqualifications Ears
prick, tulip or rose.
The skull should be flat and moderately narrow, gradually decreasing in
width to the eyes. Not much "stop" should be apparent, but there
should be more dip in the profile between the forehead and the top jaw than is
seen in the case of a Greyhound. It should be noticed that although the
foreface should gradually taper from eye to muzzle and should tip slightly at
its junction with the forehead, it should not "dish" or fall away
quickly below the eyes, where it should be full and well made up, but relieved
from "wedginess" by a little delicate
chiseling. There should be apparent little difference in length between the
skull and foreface of a well balanced head. Cheeks must not be full.
Jaws, upper and lower, should be strong and muscular and of fair
punishing strength, but not so as in any way to resemble the Greyhound or
modern English Terrier. There should not be much falling away below the eyes.
This part of the head should, however, be moderately chiseled out, so as not to
go down in a straight slope like a wedge. The nose, toward which the
muzzle must gradually taper, should be black. Disqualifications Nose
white, cherry or spotted to a considerable extent with either of these colors.
The teeth should be as nearly as possible together, i.e., the points of
the upper (incisors) teeth on the outside of or slightly overlapping the lower
teeth. Disqualifications-Much undershot, or much overshot.
Neck, Topline, Body
Neck should be clean and muscular, without throatiness, of fair length,
and gradually widening to the shoulders. Back should be short, straight
(i.e., level), and strong, with no appearance of slackness. Chest
deep and not broad. Brisket should be deep, yet not exaggerated. The foreribs should be moderately arched, the back ribs deep
and well sprung, and the dog should be well ribbed up. Loin should be very
powerful, muscular and very slightly arched. Stern should be set on
rather high, and carried gaily, but not over the back or curled. It should be
of good strength, anything approaching a "Pipestopper"
tail being especially objectionable.
Forequarters
Shoulders should be long and sloping, well laid back, fine at the
points, and clearly cut at the withers. The elbows should hang perpendicular to
the body, working free of the sides. The forelegs viewed from any direction
must be straight with bone strong right down to the feet, showing little or no
appearance of ankle in front, and being short and straight in pastern. Both
fore and hind legs should be carried straight forward in traveling.
Feet should be round, compact, and not large; the soles hard and tough;
the toes moderately arched, and turned neither in nor out.
Hindquarters
Should be strong and muscular, quite free from droop or crouch; the thighs long
and powerful, stifles well curved and turned neither in nor out; hocks well
bent and near the ground should be perfectly upright and parallel each with the
other when viewed from behind, the dog standing well up on them like a Foxhound,
and not straight in the stifle. The worst possible form of hindquarters
consists of a short second thigh and a straight stifle. Both fore and hind legs
should be carried straight forward in traveling, the stifles not turning
outward. Feet as in front.
Coat
Should be smooth, flat, but hard, dense and abundant.
The belly and underside of the thighs should not be bare.
Color
White should predominate; brindle, red or liver markings are objectionable.
Otherwise this point is of little or no importance.
Gait
Movement, or action, is the crucial test of conformation. The Terrier's legs
should be carried straight forward while traveling, the forelegs hanging
perpendicular and swinging parallel with the sides, like the pendulum of a
clock. The principal propulsive power is furnished by the hind legs, perfection
of action being found in the Terrier possessing long thighs and muscular second
thighs well bent at the stifles, which admit of a strong forward thrust or
"snatch" of the hocks. When approaching, the forelegs should form a
continuation of the straight line of the front, the feet being the same
distance apart as the elbows. When stationary it is often difficult to
determine whether a dog is slightly out at shoulder, but, directly he moves,
the defect--if it exists--becomes more apparent, the forefeet having a tendency
to cross, "weave," or "dish." When, on the contrary, the
dog is tied at the shoulder, the tendency of the feet is to move wider apart,
with a sort of paddling action. When the hocks are turned in-cow-hocks-the
stifles and feet are turned outwards, resulting in a serious loss of propulsive
power. When the hocks are turned outward the tendency of the hind feet is to
cross, resulting in an ungainly waddle.
Temperament
The dog must present a generally gay, lively and active appearance.
Disqualifications
Ears prick, tulip or rose.
Nose white, cherry or spotted to a considerable extent with either of these
colors.
Mouth much undershot, or much overshot.
Approved
Effective